Kaya tırmanışında tutamak yapılarına göre tutuş zorluk derecelerinin modellenmesi

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Thesis Type: Doctorate

Institution Of The Thesis: Hacettepe University, Sağlık Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Spor Bilimleri Ve Teknolojisi A.B.D., Turkey

Approval Date: 2014

Thesis Language: Turkish

Student: ARİF MİTHAT AMCA

Supervisor: Serdar Arıtan

Open Archive Collection: AVESIS Open Access Collection

Abstract:

The aims of this study were to analyze the effects of grip techniques, hold depth and hold inclination on maximal finger force capacity (MFFC) and muscle fatigue in order to develop a hold difficulty model related to these parameters. For these purposes, three consecutive studies were conducted. In the first study, the relationship between hold depth, grip technique and MFFC were examined and it was concluded that MFFC falls with the decrease in hold depth. In the second study, the effects of hold depth on intermittent finger force endurance were examined and it was seen that there is an excessive and sharp decline on 1 cm depth hold. However, there was not any significant effect of hold size on finger endurance because of individual differences. In the third study, the effects of hold surface inclination on MFFC were analysed on various depths of holds. The results showed that MFFC decreases with the increase in the hold surface inclination and this decline is more notable on narrow holds. Besides, it was concluded that MFFC decreases from larger to narrower holds independently from hold inclination. The results of all these three studies were combined and a hold difficulty model was created.